Yesterday was not the best day of our trip.
It wasn't bad, mind you. Nobody got hurt and nothing was lost. But it was one of those days where you realize early on that best thing that's going to happen is going to bed. It started with rain, which has continued unabated in Bruges since Tuesday. It varies from a vigorous downpour to dry spells just long enough to make you hope that perhaps it's finally going to stop long enough to do something like a boat tour or a bike ride. Then it starts raining again.
We made our way to the St. John's Hospital, stopping along the way for a quick potty stop. Something about having to pay to use the bathroom seems to bring out incontinence in the kids, so 2 euro later (Luigi went not once but twice), we got to St John's.
The museum was good, made up of many authentic artifacts and paintings that were presented in a way that allowed you to get up close. Medical care in the 13th century involved a lot of talking to saints, Jesus, Mary, and God. There were also some medical instruments-- all of which looked as appalling as you might imagine. It's hard to think about the scalpels, forceps, scissors, etc. without being reminded that anesthesia was not yet available.
It wasn't bad, mind you. Nobody got hurt and nothing was lost. But it was one of those days where you realize early on that best thing that's going to happen is going to bed. It started with rain, which has continued unabated in Bruges since Tuesday. It varies from a vigorous downpour to dry spells just long enough to make you hope that perhaps it's finally going to stop long enough to do something like a boat tour or a bike ride. Then it starts raining again.
We made our way to the St. John's Hospital, stopping along the way for a quick potty stop. Something about having to pay to use the bathroom seems to bring out incontinence in the kids, so 2 euro later (Luigi went not once but twice), we got to St John's.
The museum was good, made up of many authentic artifacts and paintings that were presented in a way that allowed you to get up close. Medical care in the 13th century involved a lot of talking to saints, Jesus, Mary, and God. There were also some medical instruments-- all of which looked as appalling as you might imagine. It's hard to think about the scalpels, forceps, scissors, etc. without being reminded that anesthesia was not yet available.
One painting was particularly jarring-- a famous doctor smiling benignly at the painter while inserting a scalpel into the eye of a child who did not look altogether comfortable with the situation. The most jarring part of the scene is how the man is smiling "at the camera" instead of paying attention to the scalpel.
By lunchtime, the rain and cold and sudden need of a restroom were making the day less than fun. For lunch we wanted something that was not quite as fancy/expensive as yesterday's lunch, but a step above the sandwich and fry shops that dot the south side of the berg like dandelions on the lawn. Sojourner got a recommendation from a local and so we would up at a restaurant whose name I won't even attempt to pronounce.
Clue #1 that we had chosen poorly was the linen table settings complete with fancy wine glasses. This was not our definition of casual. Clue #2 was that the prices for starters were in the 20's and main courses were in the 30's. They did have a kinder menu, but it had only two items-- fish sticks and a roasted chicken, each for 10 euro ("children 10 and under only"). Not exactly "mid-price". The clue that sealed the deal was when the waiter strongly and loudly chastised the American couple at the next table for suggesting that they might share an entree. He seemed to relish his invective, finding several ways to declare that plate sharing may be done in (such uncouth places as) America, but it "just isn't done here." We should have just waked out.
The food was quite good, but we did not enjoy our meal because what we all really wanted was to just get out of there. Of course, their credit card system broke so Sojourner was forced to go wandering in search of a cash machine.
We eventually did escape (for under 100 euro thanks to some judicious ordering on Sojourner's part), and headed for the Beguine house museum. But really, by this point our sprits had been crushed and so the best part of the day was the return to our apartment.