... and a second and third.
First impression was courtesy our taxi driver, who was at first puzzled at how to fit 4 passengers, 4 suitcases, and 4 backpacks into his sedan. Realizing it would take more effort than it was worth to put more than 2 suitcases in the trunk, he decided that he would use the front passenger seat for the overflow. This was after Sojourner and the kids and one suitcase and three bags had been loaded into the back seat. Fortunately, I am a relatively small guy, so I was able to squeeze in to the front seat for the trip to the apartment.
Acceleration is apparently the key to driving in Zagrab, if our driver was any measure. No seatbelt required. He shaved 15 minutes off the 45-minute journey to the apartment, not at our request but presumably so he could get on to whatever it was he was terribly late for. Still, we made it there alive and the fare was only 15 euro.
I was decidedly unimpressed with the drop off location. I had to ask twice if this was, in fact, the correct address. The prolific graffiti and penitentiary-style steel gate gave me pause, as did the man who was pawing through the trash bins before me. But Sojourner powered through my reticence and led us through the steel gates (she knew the code to open them), and into the darkness beyond.
Right up to the moment we opened the apartment door I thought we had made a whopping error in judgment. Then we were through and in a moment my concerns vanished. The apartment is grand, and spacious, with high ceilings and remote-controlled blinds. It's everything our Paris apartment was not. In fact, the square footage of the entire Paris apartment was probably about twice the square footage of the master bath alone here in Zagreb.
First impression was courtesy our taxi driver, who was at first puzzled at how to fit 4 passengers, 4 suitcases, and 4 backpacks into his sedan. Realizing it would take more effort than it was worth to put more than 2 suitcases in the trunk, he decided that he would use the front passenger seat for the overflow. This was after Sojourner and the kids and one suitcase and three bags had been loaded into the back seat. Fortunately, I am a relatively small guy, so I was able to squeeze in to the front seat for the trip to the apartment.
Acceleration is apparently the key to driving in Zagrab, if our driver was any measure. No seatbelt required. He shaved 15 minutes off the 45-minute journey to the apartment, not at our request but presumably so he could get on to whatever it was he was terribly late for. Still, we made it there alive and the fare was only 15 euro.
I was decidedly unimpressed with the drop off location. I had to ask twice if this was, in fact, the correct address. The prolific graffiti and penitentiary-style steel gate gave me pause, as did the man who was pawing through the trash bins before me. But Sojourner powered through my reticence and led us through the steel gates (she knew the code to open them), and into the darkness beyond.
Right up to the moment we opened the apartment door I thought we had made a whopping error in judgment. Then we were through and in a moment my concerns vanished. The apartment is grand, and spacious, with high ceilings and remote-controlled blinds. It's everything our Paris apartment was not. In fact, the square footage of the entire Paris apartment was probably about twice the square footage of the master bath alone here in Zagreb.
After we had settled in, I ventured out in search of food. It turns out we're about a block away from the vibrant downtown. I saw hundreds of people, young and old, out enjoying the pleasant evening. I discovered a bakery that was still open and picked up a few things to satisfy the hordes back at the apartment. Along the way I saw about 50 people out enjoying a live concert in the park-- 50's (American) music with a singer and mini orchestra. I felt great about being here as I walked home with a swing in my step. |
Next morning (today), I went out in search of a restaurant that had been recommended by the apartment rental company. On my 10-minute walk I encountered no fewer than 4 people searching through trash bins. I assume they were looking for bottles for some kind of redemption value, but I don't know that for sure. I also encountered a woman who aggressively panhandled me (again, I am assuming because I don't understand a word of Croatian). I saw that the graffiti is almost everywhere, and while there are many prosperous shops in the area, there are also many closed up shops and many buildings bearing only the shadows of signs long-since removed. It's a strange state of decay mixed with prosperity.
Years ago, we went to the Virgin Islands. There we found fantastic wealth intermixed with desperate poverty. Zagreb (at least, the Zagreb I've seen in the last 12 hours) is not like that. It has built itself up as a tourist economy, but the graffiti, panhandling, and scavenging suggest a hint of desperation. They're making their way along the road to prosperity, but not everyone is coming along for the ride and they're certainly not there yet.
Years ago, we went to the Virgin Islands. There we found fantastic wealth intermixed with desperate poverty. Zagreb (at least, the Zagreb I've seen in the last 12 hours) is not like that. It has built itself up as a tourist economy, but the graffiti, panhandling, and scavenging suggest a hint of desperation. They're making their way along the road to prosperity, but not everyone is coming along for the ride and they're certainly not there yet.
It's also worth pointing out that there's a lot of smoking here. Fortunately, we have not been forced to endure indoor smoking anywhere yet, but outside there are many street cafes where it seems smoking is not just allowed but required. It's too bad we won't be able to enjoy sitting outside at any cafes.
Despite my complaints, Zagreb has been a good destination so far. We're here for only barely more than a day, so I expect we're only going to scratch the surface. The friendly waiter at the Cafe Fotika told us we really must get to the the zoo, but I suspect that will have to wait for another time.
Despite my complaints, Zagreb has been a good destination so far. We're here for only barely more than a day, so I expect we're only going to scratch the surface. The friendly waiter at the Cafe Fotika told us we really must get to the the zoo, but I suspect that will have to wait for another time.